Monstera
The big statement plant. Monstera wants bright indirect light, room to climb and a weekly drink, and it rewards you with split leaves the size of dinner plates.
The plant that made us buy a humidifier. In a dry house the new leaves come in smaller and the edges crisp. With a little humidity it takes over the room, throwing out a new split leaf every few weeks all summer and climbing whatever you give it.
It is a climber, not a bush. Give it a moss pole or a plank early and the leaves get bigger and more fenestrated with every node. Let it sprawl and it stays smaller and floppier.
Light
Bright indirect light. A few feet from a south window, or right at an east one. It tolerates medium light with smaller, less split leaves. A couple of hours of gentle morning sun are fine; hot afternoon sun burns the leaves.
Water
Water when the top two inches are dry, roughly weekly in summer and every two weeks in winter. Then let it drain fully. It tells you it is thirsty with slightly drooping leaves. Yellowing lower leaves with wet soil mean too much water.
Soil and potting
A chunky aroid mix: potting soil with plenty of orchid bark and perlite so the roots get air. Repot every eighteen months in spring, going up two inches, and add a pole at the same time. The aerial roots can go into the pot or wrap the pole.
Feeding
Half-strength balanced feed monthly in spring and summer. A well-lit monstera is a heavy grower and uses it.
Propagation
Cut below a node with an aerial root, root it in water or damp sphagnum moss, and pot it up when the roots are a couple of inches long. One cutting becomes a full plant within a year.
In a hot, dry home
This is the one that struggles here. Group it with other plants, keep it away from AC vents, and expect to mist or run a humidifier from June to September. The reward is worth it; without humidity it lives but never gets the giant leaves.
Monstera varieties
Same care, different look. These are the named forms you will see for sale.
- Deliciosa (green)
The standard split-leaf monstera.
-
Cream-speckled variegation, stable. Has its own profile.
Full profile -
White-sectored variegation, unstable. Has its own profile.
Full profile - Mint
Pale mint-green variegation. Rare and pricey.
- White Monster
A heavily white form of the Albo type. Very rare.
- Yellow Marilyn
Yellow-sectored variegation. Very rare.
- Borsigiana
The smaller-leaved form most shops actually sell as deliciosa. Same care.
Problems and fixes
New leaves have no splits
Likely cause: Not enough light, or the plant is still young
Fix: Move to a brighter spot and give it a pole to climb. Splits come with maturity and light, not fertiliser.
Brown crispy edges
Likely cause: Low humidity
Fix: Raise humidity above 40 percent. A pebble tray helps a little; a humidifier helps a lot.
Yellow lower leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering
Fix: Let the top two inches dry out and check the drainage.
Leaves drooping and stems flopping
Likely cause: No support, or thirst
Fix: Water if the soil is dry. Add a moss pole and tie the stems in.
Monstera questions
Why are my monstera leaves not splitting?
Young plants and plants in lower light produce whole leaves. Give it bright indirect light and something to climb, and the splits arrive on new growth.
Is monstera toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. Like most aroids it contains calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the mouth and stomach.
What do I do with the aerial roots?
Tuck them into the pot, wrap them onto a moss pole, or leave them. They are not a problem and they help the plant climb.
Plants with a similar rhythm
Heartleaf Philodendron
- Light
- Low to bright indirect
- Water
- Weekly
- Pets
- Toxic
