Fiddle Leaf Fig
The statement tree of the last decade, with violin-shaped leaves the size of dinner plates. It is not hard, but it is particular: bright light, a fixed spot, and water only when the top half of the pot is dry.
The fiddle leaf fig earned its reputation two ways: it looks incredible in a corner, and it drops leaves the moment it is unhappy. Both are true. The trick is that it is not fussy about many things, just a few things it feels strongly about.
Give it the brightest spot you have that is not blasted by afternoon sun, pick that spot once, and water it on a rhythm instead of a whim. Do that and it settles in and puts out a new leaf every few weeks all summer.
Light
Bright indirect light, and plenty of it. A spot within a few feet of an east window, or a south window with sheer curtains, is ideal. It will take some direct morning sun and is better for it.
What it will not take is being moved. Rotate the pot a quarter turn each month so it grows straight, but keep it in the same place. A fig that gets shuffled between rooms drops leaves in protest every time.
Water
Push a finger into the soil. If the top two or three inches are dry, water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. In summer that is roughly weekly; in winter, every two weeks or longer.
Overwatering shows up as brown spots spreading from the middle of the leaves. Underwatering shows as crisp brown edges. Aim for the middle and it is remarkably steady.
Soil and potting
A chunky, fast-draining mix. Regular potting soil cut with a third perlite or orchid bark works. Repot every 18 months or when roots circle the bottom, going up only two inches in pot width so the soil does not stay wet for weeks.
Feeding
A balanced liquid feed at half strength every four weeks from spring to early autumn. Nothing in winter. Figs grown in bright light are hungry; figs in dim light are not, and feeding them just builds salts in the soil.
Propagation
Take a stem cutting with two or three leaves in spring, let the sap dry for an hour, and root it in water or moist perlite in a warm bright spot. Roots take four to eight weeks. Air layering works on tall plants you want to shorten.
In a hot, dry home
It does well here as long as it is kept away from AC vents and west-facing glass. The dry air is fine; it is the drafts and the afternoon sun that crisp the leaf edges. In summer, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every couple of weeks so dust does not block the light it needs.
Problems and fixes
Brown spots spreading from the centre of the leaves
Likely cause: Overwatering and root rot
Fix: Let the top half of the pot dry out. Check the roots; trim any that are brown and mushy and repot in fresh, chunky mix.
Crisp brown edges
Likely cause: Underwatering, low humidity or a draft
Fix: Water more deeply, move it away from vents, and group it with other plants.
Dropping leaves after a move
Likely cause: Shock from a change in light or position
Fix: Leave it where it is. It will stop within a couple of weeks once it adjusts.
Leggy, with leaves only at the top
Likely cause: Not enough light
Fix: Move it closer to a bright window and prune the top to encourage branching.
Fiddle Leaf Fig questions
How often should I water a fiddle leaf fig?
About once a week in summer and every two weeks in winter, but always check the soil first. Water when the top two to three inches are dry, then soak it thoroughly.
Is a fiddle leaf fig toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. The sap of all Ficus species irritates the mouth and stomach. Keep it out of reach or choose a pet-safe tree like a parlor palm.
Why is my fiddle leaf fig dropping leaves?
Usually a change: a move, a new draft, or a shift in watering. Fix the cause, then leave it alone. Steady conditions are what it wants most.
